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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked high among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary achievement.